Stearic acid exists more in animal fat than in vegetable fat. Animal fat contains 30% stearic acid, while it is less than 5% in vegetable fats. However, the only exceptions are cocoa butter and shea butter. These two plant oils contain 28%-45% of stearic acid (2). Both shea and cocoa butters have a positive impact on skin health (3), (4). Let us take a look at the positive effects of stearic acid on the skin.
What Are The Benefits Of Stearic Acid For The Skin?
Stearic acid is unlike other facial acids (the AHAs and BHA). It is mainly used in dermatological formulations, soaps, and lotions for the following reasons:
1. Improves Skin Smoothness
Stearic acid is an emollient and helps maintain and protect the skin’s natural barrier (5). Emollients keep the skin smooth by reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and maintaining moisture levels (6).
2. May Improve Skin Permeability
The role of emollients is not limited to skin smoothening. They offer therapeutic benefits by influencing skin physiology and pathology. Emollients impact the functions of the skin barrier and play an essential role in skin repair and permeability. They prepare your skin to absorb moisture and ingredients better (5). Stearic acid may also promote skin repair and improve skin texture.
3. May Relieve Skin Inflammation
Emollients can calm inflammatory skin conditions like atopic dermatitis and eczema. These conditions compromise the skin’s barrier and may cause redness, dryness, cracked skin, and itchiness. Shea butter is rich in stearic acid and is an effective monotherapy for mild to moderate atopic dermatitis and other inflammatory conditions. It repairs the skin barrier and soothes inflammation (5).
4. May Cleanse The Skin
Stearic acid also works as a surfactant. It is commonly used in cleansers and soaps as it binds to oil, water, and dirt, making it easier to clean your skin. Moreover, this emollient does not strip the natural oils, thus providing gentle cleansing. If you have sensitive or compromised skin, you can use gentle cleansers with stearic acid. Stearic acid is used in different ways in skincare products. Let’s take a look at them.
How Stearic Acid Is Used In Skin Care Formulations
Stearic acid can be animal or plant-derived. It is primarily used in cleansing and body lotions, soaps, creams, ointments, and body oils as a:
1. Thickener
Without stearic acid, the soap bars you use cannot hold their shape. It works as a thickener to harden the product so that it can hold shape. Other than soap bars, stearic acid is also used in oil pastels and candles.
2. Surfactant
Stearic acid is a surfactant, and without this ingredient, the soaps, face washes, and cleansing gels cannot remove dirt and grime from your skin. It emulsifies oil and fat to suspend the impurities and dirt. As a result, it is easier to remove dirt from the skin.
3. Emulsifier
The skin creams that you use are generally emulsions of oil and water. If you are wondering how oil and water mix – stearic acid is the answer. It is an emulsifier that prevents oil and water from splitting and increases the longevity of the product. Stearic acid has a hydrophilic (water-loving) head and hydrophobic (oil-loving) tail. These two ends attract water and oil and keep them together. If you are concerned about the adverse effects of stearic acid and wondering whether it is suitable for your skin or not, take a look at the next section.
Side Effects Of Stearic Acid
Stearic acid is considered safe and non-toxic for the skin (1). Moreover, the formulations use trace amounts of the ingredient, which is usually safe for the skin. However, any ingredient can trigger allergic reactions and cause redness, itching, and mild irritation.
Is stearic acid the same as citric acid? No, there are a few differences between citric acid and stearic acid. Citrus acid is an odorless and colorless compound derived from citrus fruits. Stearic acid is a solid fatty chain acid derived from animal and plant fats. Is coconut oil high in stearic acid? Yes, coconut oil is one of the plant derivatives that is high in stearic acid (7). Is stearic acid carcinogenic? No. Instead, studies suggest that stearic acid may help in cancer cell death and stop the cell cycle (8). Does stearic acid clog pores? No, stearic acid is one of the skin care ingredients that does not clog pores and is ideal for all skin types. Is stearic acid safe in vitamins? Yes, magnesium stearate is the magnesium salt of stearic acid. Magnesium stearate is commonly used in vitamin supplements as a flowing agent. It is considered safe for use (9). Is stearic acid good for vegans? Yes, you can choose products that use stearic acid derived from plant-based sources.
